DINING REVIEW
Hannah & Nate鈥檚 Market Cafe a restaurant-slash-community center worth the trip
Hannah & Nate's Market Cafe in Corrales has served as a neighborhood gathering spot for 20 years
Seemingly every New Mexican village of a certain size has one: the restaurant-slash-community center.
Typically, it鈥檚 set on the main drag through town, often in a historic building with heavy walls and tile floors warped with age. It鈥檚 open for breakfast and lunch only. More than a place to eat, it鈥檚 a meeting house where patrons talk politics, weather, the economy or whatever else comes up over hot coffee and spicy, warming food.
In Corrales, the village of about 8,500 people on the west side of the Rio Grande between Rio Rancho and Sandia Pueblo, that distinction belongs to Hannah & Nate鈥檚 Market Caf茅.
Phil and Beth Salazar opened the place 20 years ago, just four years after they launched the first location at Riverside Plaza, the sprawling shopping center at Monta帽o Road and Coors Boulevard on the West Side. They named the two spots after their children.
I recently visited the Corrales location to meet a friend for a weekday lunch. The drive north on Corrales Road from the West Side into the village is remarkable for how quickly the shopping center snarl of Coors and Alameda boulevards yields to tree-shaded roads, acequias and farms. Drive mindfully here, as the local police strictly enforce speed limits.
Hannah & Nate鈥檚 sits on the east side of the road across from Indigo Crow, another longtime neighborhood dining fixture, in a stucco building set behind a quaint patio.
Parking is available in a narrow lot that abuts the side and back of the building. The lot was full when I arrived, so I parked at the village鈥檚 visitor center a short walk to the south. There is a steady amount of turnover in the lot, as my friend arrived a few minutes after me and found a space.
The dining area is broken into three rooms. Just before noon, almost every seat was taken with a mix of couples and groups. The sounds of laughter and conversation volleyed off the dining room鈥檚 hard surfaces. We were seated at a two-top table by the window in the front dining room and given separate menus for breakfast and lunch.
The breakfast menu starts off with a Local Flavor section that mixes the familiar, such as Breakfast Enchiladas ($11.75) and Huevos Rancheros ($11.75), with some unique dishes like the Sloppy Jose ($13.25), a pile of carnitas and diced potatoes capped with a couple of eggs.
The Eggs Benedict de Nuevo Mexico ($13.25) showcases the kitchen鈥檚 creativity. The dish arrived with two poached eggs sitting domelike over a pile of carne adovada and English muffin halves. The house-made carne adovada was terrific, with small chunks of tender meat in a red chile sauce that carried a tolerable sizzle. The runny egg yolks added a velvety richness to the sauce, although they quickly made the muffin halves soggy. Also, the side of diced red potatoes and sauteed onions was underheated.
The Quesadillas & Breakfast Sandwiches section of the menu kicks off, naturally, with a Breakfast Quesadilla ($9.75). This was a pretty straightforward construct comprised of a grilled flour tortilla folded over scrambled eggs, green chile and cheddar cheese and cut into four sections for easy dipping into the accompanying cup of red salsa. Slices of watermelon and cantaloupe balanced the mild sting of the green chile. Satisfying, if not as inventive as the Eggs Benedict.
Other sections of the breakfast menu include Breakfast Burritos and Omelets with some unexpected fillings like grilled shrimp and carne adovada. There鈥檚 a section of smaller-portioned 鈥渓ite鈥� breakfast entrees that cost $8 to $9.50. The sweet side is repped by a French Toast entr茅e ($9) and a side of pancakes.
The restaurant鈥檚 mix of unique and familiar continues with the lunch menu. After a selection of Appetizers and Salad and Wraps come 14 Signature Sandwiches served with a choice of potato salad, fresh fruit or chips. Among the usual suspects are standouts like a Salmon BLT ($15) and a Tuscan Meatloaf Sandwich ($11.75).
As with the Eggs Benedict de Nuevo Mexico, Hannah & Nate鈥檚 New Mexico BLT ($11.75) spices up a diner standard. The sandwich arrived sliced on the diagonal, each half spiked with a toothpick. Green chile enlivened the combination of silky guacamole and thick slabs of bacon, and the whole wheat bread was crisp and buttery from the grill. An improved version of a classic. Special mention to the sweet, fresh fruit 鈥� in this case, slices of pineapple, watermelon, cantaloupe and a quarter of an orange 鈥� that came with the entrees.
The 11 dishes in the Local Flavor section of the lunch menu include New Mexican favorites like a Chile Relleno Plate ($13.75), an Enchilada Plate ($12.75) and Green Chile Stew ($6). The Combo Plate costs $14.25. In a dish of Fish Tacos ($13.25), two corn tortillas held chunks of pan-seared tilapia dressed with citrus chipotle sauce. The sauce enhanced the sweet, mild-flavored fish with tang and heat, and the sides of Spanish rice and beans covered with melted cheddar cheese were spicy and flavorful.
Among the three desserts priced at $6 to $7.50, the Cranberry Bread Pudding ($7) caught my attention. It arrived as an oblong island of sourdough bread pudding rising from a thin, warm caramel sauce. Whipped cream and toasted almond slices topped it off. It was nicely done, not at all heavy like other bread puddings, and the dried cranberries provided a tart finish. The portion size was enough for two to share.
The beverage selection includes a few specialty coffee drinks. Cappuccinos and lattes go for $4.50. There are seven Kid鈥檚 Meals priced from $3 to $5.50.
The food came out within 10 minutes. Our server, who handled the front dining room and the patio, was friendly, efficient and well-versed in the many gluten-free options that are not marked on the menu.
Hannah & Nate鈥檚 has established itself as an anchor in the community of Corrales over its 20 years in business, but you needn鈥檛 be a local to visit. Its menu and service make it worth the trip for out-of-towners too.
