ϼ

DINING REVIEW

DINING REVIEW: Indigenous vegan restaurant Itality is truly one of a kind

Published

ITALITY

3½ stars

LOCATION: 2500 12th St. NW, 505-451-2861,

HOURS: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday; 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday; closed Monday

NO ALCOHOL

For much of its 50-year existence, Indian Pueblo Cultural Center’s dining choices were limited to its flagship restaurant, Indian Pueblo Kitchen.

That changed beginning in 2016 with the construction of Avanyu Plaza across the street from the center. Ten years later, two hotels and several eateries fill the three blocks on the east side of 12th Street. Options include the elevated pub grub of Sixty-Six Acres, an outlet of the acclaimed Laguna Burger and — most unusual of all — the vegan restaurant Itality.

Just how unique is Itality? It’s purportedly the only vegan Indigenous restaurant in the entire country.

Itality chef/owner Tina Archuleta got her start selling burritos at Jemez Pueblo. She found inspiration in her shift to a plant-based diet and opened Itality in 2022 with an eye toward spreading the gospel of veganism with ingredients sourced from local Native farmers. She drew Itality’s name from the Rastafarian concept of Ital, which means adherence to a natural, vegetarian diet.

Itality is located on the south end of a shopping center anchored by a recently opened La Montañita Co-op grocery store. Other tenants include a tea shop and the 12th Street Tavern. The entrance to the shopping center is one street to the east on Eagle Way. If you’re coming from Interstate 40, you’ll have to navigate a traffic rotary to get to the spacious lot.

A pergola and an enclosed patio mark Itality’s entrance. Inside, a handful of tables, mostly two-tops, fill the shallow, L-shaped dining room. Ordering is done at the counter, and the food is brought out on trays. Business was steady throughout my recent lunch hour visit.

The vegan menu that fits on two sides of a sheet of paper is broken up into Breakfast, Salads, Frybread, Feast Day and Smoothies. Prices range from $7 to $20, with numerous items checking in at $10 or less.

Five dishes priced from $8 to $15 make up the all-day breakfast menu. Tofu substitutes for eggs in the Breakfast Burrito ($13), and coconut whipped cream tops the Blue Corn Waffle ($15). Itality’s version of Atole ($9), a hot, masa-based beverage that predates the arrival of the Spanish to the Americas, is made with blue corn. Handsomely presented in a white bowl, pumpkin seeds and blueberries covered one side of the gray-blue atole. Slashes of a crimson-colored berry sauce dressed the surface. The atole had the consistency of a bowl of porridge, its nutty flavor sweetened ever so slightly with maple syrup and spiked with a little acid from the berry sauce. Light, warming and mildly addictive.

After a couple of $13 salads comes the Frybread section of the menu that leads off with the Ital NDN Taco ($14). The Frisbee-sized fry bread held a layer of red chile pinto beans under a pile of shredded romaine lettuce topped with sliced grape tomatoes and chopped onions. Four hunks of creamy avocado lined one side. The ingredients were fresh and the bread, made with whole wheat flour, blue corn and sea salt, was flaky and stretchy. The tangy pumpkin chi sauce added a little tang and sweetness, but there wasn’t enough of it to register strongly.

The Feast Day section offers a mix of Indigenous and New Mexican favorites. Among the options are a Feast Bowl made of beans, quinoa and kale; a couple of Enchiladas; and a stew called Kyu-Nah whose ingredients change by the day.

Tamales are available as a plate ($20) with quinoa, black beans and frybread, or a la carte ($9). The latter version consisted of two tamales covered in red chile sauce and presented on an open corn husk. The masa had a much creamier consistency than its crumbly lard-laden cousins, and the silky-smooth sauce delivered a hint of smoke that burned off to a mild tingle on the tongue. Black beans, squash and kale filled the middle of the slightly flattened masa cylinders. While I missed the cheese that accompanies non-vegan versions, I found this to be a very good rendition.

A highlight of the Feast Day menu was the OG Nachos Supreme ($15). The plate arrived heaped with shredded lettuce, quinoa and black beans over a base of large, crisp tortilla chips. Tomatoes, pickled jalapeños and a scoop of guacamole topped it off. The dish offered a good balance of ingredients, with the jalapeños adding a sting of vinegar. Unlike the Indian taco, this dish had an ample supply of the pumpkin chi sauce. It filled the role of nacho cheese sauce admirably, adding a little tang and tying everything together well. The bites when the chips had softened under the cheese and toppings were particularly splendid.

The Smoothies menu has four varieties that cost $9 for a 12-ounce serving and $11 for a 16 ouncer. The Mango Marley, a nod to reggae legend and Rastafarian Bob Marley, combines mango, coconut, banana and cashews blended to a smooth texture. It was a good partner to the savory, spicy food. The ingredients were well-balanced, with the banana tamping down the mango’s tartness and the coconut providing a finishing note. Cold-pressed juices are also available for $8 for a 12-ounce bottle, and there’s a self-serve water station at the counter.

As for desserts, an appetizing selection of cookies lines a display case up front alongside blocks of blue corn bread wrapped in plastic.

My food took about 12 minutes to come out. The woman working the counter was friendly and helpful. Itality offers an ample selection of gluten-free items that are marked on the menu.

At Itality, Archuleta shows that vegan dining need not mean sacrificing taste. The restaurant’s mix of vegan options and Indigenous cuisine makes it a matchless experience and another reason to visit IPCC.