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SMALL BUSINESS

‘Chile roasting, it ain’t no joke’: New Mexico businesses gear up as season nears

Local shops are stocking up and preparing staff and ovens for their busiest months

Larry Nelson, the owner of Nelson’s Meats, with a case of fresh green chile in July. Nelson said his store in southwest Albuquerque roasts roughly 5,000 sacks of chile.
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With chile roasting beginning for some vendors ahead of the season’s peak, some New Mexicans are already looking to get their chile fix — and for many, purchasing the perfect pepper is a serious venture.

“I can’t find hot chile in town,” Nelson’s Meats owner Larry Nelson recalled a customer saying last year.

“I’ve got some that’s like fire,” the 87-year-old Nelson responded.

After taking the chile from Nelson’s hand and letting the flavorful pepper hit her tongue, her face reddened, sweat dripping from her head.

“That’s what I want,” she told him, taking her hat off and wiping her forehead.

Nelson retold that story earlier this month as he prepared for this year’s chile season, which peaks in August.

New Mexico, the nation’s leading chile producer, treats the signature crop as a cultural concept rather than just a meal staple.

In 2025, the state produced nearly 55,000 tons of chile, according to state production . The crop was valued at nearly $55 million in 2025.

Small roasters remain in demand during chile roasting season because of their connectedness with the community and what they represent for New Mexicans, said Reilly White, a University of New Mexico finance professor and economist.

“It becomes much more ingrained to the culture of what New Mexico is,” said White. “It is woven into the fabric of our state.”

At Nelson’s in Southwest Albuquerque, peppers arrive after a three-hour drive north from Hatch, the “Chile Capital of the World.” They are roasted in pizza ovens inherited from the now-closed Pudge Bros. Pizza — a contrast with the more common practice that uses rotating steel barrels. Employee Josh Flores, who said he has worked at Nelson’s since age 14 and has spent his whole life at the store, called the nontraditional roasting concept a “happy accident.”

Ever since Nelson launched his business in 1965 and began roasting chile more than 30 years ago, he said he “can’t stop” working. He arrives at the store by 4 a.m., along with five other employees, and leaves just in time to sleep for roughly seven hours. “That’s it,” he said of his sleep schedule.

The store roasts roughly 50 sacks ahead of opening each day — a small portion of the 5,000 total for the season — to prepare for the orders, which are taken by hand and clipped near the ovens, Nelson said.

The ovens operate at temperatures ranging from 525 to 600 degrees, depending on pepper size, Nelson said. Moments after the heat hits the chile, it emits an earthy smell combined with a crisp, smoky char. After seven minutes, the peppers reach the end of the conveyor and fall into a plastic-lined box.

Roasted chile comes out of a pizza oven at Nelson’s Meats in Albuquerque. The business acquired the oven from the now-closed Pudge Bros. Pizza.
Randy Mouldin places fresh green chile on the roaster at Nelson’s Meats in Albuquerque.

Randy Mouldin, a Nelson’s employee of nearly a decade, grabbed a pepper just before it fell into the box. “Golden brown,” he said, drawing out the words’ syllables to describe the chile’s blistering skin.

He began peeling it effortlessly.

“When I opened it up, it wasn’t burnt,” he said. “You put a thermometer here, it’s over 200 degrees.”

One reason Nelson said New Mexicans love chile is that it contains capsaicin, the compound that gives peppers their heat.

“It’s very healthy, and you can mix it with anything,” he said, as he snacked on freshly diced chile spread across a saltine cracker.

Although many stores begin selling chile in mid-July, Nelson said the crop at that time has not yet reached the maturity required for sack sales, leading his business to offer it in smaller bags. By early August, he said his store will be in “full blast and selling sacks.”

The Fruit Basket ABQ, a family-owned produce market in the North Valley, has also built its business around meeting customers’ demands.

General Manager John Gonzales now manages the store his grandfather built, where he once spent his high school years operating the chile roasters in the New Mexico heat for extra cash. Today, he said his grandfather is “pretty much retired” and trusts his grandson to run the business.

July through the end of October is the busiest and the “bulk of our season as far as sales,” Gonzales said. On a typical three-day weekend, he said, The Fruit Basket roasts about 1,000 sacks of chile. From late July through October, the store roasts approximately 50,000 pounds of chile.

“You drive down the road, you smell it and everybody just knows it’s that time of year,” Gonzales said. “Chile never goes out of style, and it never loses interest because everybody is interested in green chile.”

Adrian Diaz starts the chile roaster at The Fruit Basket ABQ in July. The North Valley business roasts about 50,000 pounds of chile from July through October.
Fresh Hatch green chile ready for sale at The Fruit Basket ABQ.

Like many longtime vendors, The Fruit Basket has worked with the same farmers for years, Gonzales said, and the deal thrives on trust and feedback.

But no two seasons are alike. Rain can affect supply, and staffing at the store can be a struggle some years, he said, though this year has been better. 

“Chile roasting, it ain’t no joke,” he said.

The harvest season’s unpredictability means vendors have to be ready for whatever the season brings, Gonzales said.

“You’ve got to just play that ball game of just anything being thrown at you,” Gonzales said. “You got to be ready for it.”

About 10 miles up the road in the Northeast Heights, Ken DeWees has spent more than three decades building his chile-roasting business.

DeWees credits a decades-long relationship with one Hatch farmer for much of the consistency customers expect. But part of that consistency comes down to the seed.

His farmer invests in a new chile seed every other year — a purchase DeWees said can run $10,000 to $15,000.

“That keeps us consistent,” he said. “Our flavors and our heats and all that type of stuff are consistent because it's the same farmer every year.”

Each season, Chile Traditions roasts between 6,000 and 8,000 bags of chile, DeWees said. “It’s definitely a big boost to our income,” he said.

The harvest also draws customers from beyond New Mexico, including flight attendants who make a one-day round trip from San Diego just to buy chile before flying home, DeWees said.

“I love doing green chile because you’re associating with your customer, you’re talking to your customer, and you’re getting all your customers,” he said. “And it’s a great time to visit with them and see them again.”

Back at The Fruit Basket, Gonzales said customers who return year after year can be particular about what type of chile they take home. Just like the woman at Nelson’s who asked for the hottest chile, people across the Land of Enchantment know what they like.

“New Mexicans take their chile personally,” Gonzales said. “You mess with their chile, you’re messing with their emotions.”

Keelin Fisher is a business reporter for the Journal. You can reach her at kfisher@abqjournal.com