近距离内射合集

The 2023 closure of Yanni鈥檚 in Nob Hill left a void in the city鈥檚 Greek fine dining scene.

But not for long. 

Just one year later, Nicole Kapnison, former owner of Yanni鈥檚, launched D艒roth茅a in the Northeast Heights. 

The excitement surrounding the restaurant鈥檚 opening was due in no small part to its pedigree. The Kapnison family has been integral to the local restaurant scene ever since Nicole鈥檚 father, Nick, opened a place Downtown called Coney Island in the late 1950s. Over the ensuing decades, he built an impressive portfolio of places like Kap鈥檚 Coffee Shop, Mykonos Caf茅 & Taverna and Nick and Jimmy鈥檚, to name a few.

Nicole Kapnison, who learned the restaurant business working under her parents at Yanni鈥檚 before purchasing it in 2019, has proven to be something of a visionary herself. During the COVID year of 2020, she transformed a corner of the old Mykonos restaurant into Meraki Coffee + Market, a stylish spot that deftly balances the contemporary with the traditional. 

At D艒roth茅a, she鈥檚 followed a similar approach, giving the rest of the old Mykonos space an elegant makeover and updating the menu without fully abandoning the classics. 

D艒roth茅a 鈥� the name comes from Nicole Kapnison鈥檚 grandmother Dorothy, whose tuberculosis prompted the family鈥檚 move from the Midwest to New Mexico back in the 1950s 鈥� is open for dinner six days a week. On weekdays, a Happy Hour runs from 3-5 p.m. Online reservations are not available as of this writing. We booked a table for two for Saturday night by calling a couple of days in advance. 

D艒roth茅a sits in the middle of an outbuilding in the Mountain Run Shopping Center at the intersection of Juan Tabo and Eubank boulevards, a mostly residential area with few restaurants. The elegant cursive of the sign and the patinated metal facing of the fa莽ade present a stark contrast to the bright plastic frontages of the Dairy Queen and Subway that bracket it.

Inside, the effect is, for the most part, sustained. The dining room that stretches behind the host stand has booths on one side, four-top tables with white tablecloths in the middle and half-dome pendant lights hanging overhead. On the other side of the wall sits a long bar and more tables.

After checking in, we were led to the third dining space, a somewhat impersonal box overlooking the parking lot that calls to mind a hotel function room. 

The drinks menu offers a varied selection of wines with glasses in the $10 neighborhood. Most of the bottles come in below $50. There is a $255 bottle of Perrier Jouet champagne if you want to splurge.

The selection of cocktails provides a showcase for Nikle spirits, Kapnison鈥檚 award-winning line of gin and vodka that she launched during the pandemic. Craft cocktails go for $16, mocktails for $14 鈥� less during Happy Hour.

I ordered a Nikgroni Verde ($16) made with Nikle gin and green del santo liqueur and instead got a regular old negroni. Seeing the beautiful ruby-red colored drink with a big ice cube in it sitting before me, I decided to keep it. No regrets, as it was a superlative premeal drink, its appetite-stimulating bitterness softened with sweet vermouth and the crisp, slightly floral gin. 

Tucked away in the drinks menu is a small section of Taverna Food ($7 to $15), including a burger and truffle fries, and a selection of oysters and caviar at market prices. 

The food menu retains a few of the items from Yanni鈥檚 and Mykonos, like the flaming-cheese dish Saganaki ($15) and the slow-braised Lamb Shank ($32). Rather than appetizers, it starts with 12 shareable dishes ranging from a $5 breadbasket to the popular $20 Greek Plate with feta cheese, spanakopita, pita and olives. 

We started off with the Tiropita ($14), Greek for 鈥渃heese pie,鈥� a block of filo the size of a paperback book layered with sheep鈥檚 milk feta and topped with sesame seeds and honey. Think spanakopita without the spinach. D艒roth茅a鈥檚 version, with its dramatic textural contrast between the thin, shattering layers of filo and the fluffy cheese, was addictive. The slight brininess of the cheese offset the sweetness of the honey. I wanted to finish it, but for the sake of my appetite, I ate half and took the rest home.

A gyro-based menu section called Greek Street offers proof that the new place hasn鈥檛 completely abandoned the standards. 

From this section, we tried the Souvlaki Gyro Platter ($20) centered around marinated chicken cubes grilled on skewers with peppers and onions. The big blocks of white-meat chicken were moist, smoky and lemony, and the tzatziki spread over the top added a bright, sharp charge of flavor. Restaurant rice is so often forgettable, but here it was outstanding, well-seasoned and perfectly al dente. A nicely executed dish and a large enough portion to be shared. It comes with a cup of Greek salata made up of tomato, cucumber and feta. 

The rest of the entrees include four pastas priced at $20 to $32 and a From the Grill section that features steak, pork chops, lamb and fish. Prices range from $23 for a Bone-in Pork Chop to $140 for a grass-fed Tomahawk Chop. 

The pan-seared Whole Fish Branzino ($35), one of those grill items, arrived on a rimmed plate under a couple of slices of lemons and a spread of Preserved Lemon and Caper Compound Butter ($2). The flaky white fish, served butterflied and deboned, was fresh and sweet, and the lemon caper butter added enough acid and salt to augment without overwhelming. A home run, one of the best fish dishes in the city. Like all the From the Grill entrees, it comes with a choice of one side. We had the grilled asparagus, still snappy and carrying a hint of smoke and lemon. 

Outside of the From the Grill section of the menu, sides will cost you between $6 and $16. A plate of purple Roasted Carrots ($10) was pretty 鈥� the earthy, purple and orange carrots cooked to the sweet spot between crunchy and soft. The honey balsamic dressing, whipped feta and lemon zest helped punch up the flavor of the carrots. 

The separate Dessert menu offered Vanilla Cake with jam and whipped cream ($10), Chocolate Espresso Martini Cake ($10), and Baklava ($7), plus Ice Cream ($6), and a selection of coffee and after-dinner drinks. On this night at least, there were no gluten-free options, so we ducked into Dairy Queen after the meal.

Outside of the desserts, many items on the menu are gluten-free or can be made that way. Our server was stoic and efficient, and the food came out quickly. By the time we left, the dining room had filled almost to capacity.

With its inventive menu and fresh ingredients, D艒roth茅a has proven to be a more-than-suitable replacement for Yanni鈥檚 as the city鈥檚 exemplar of fine Greek dining. It鈥檚 a fitting addition to the Kapnison legacy.