近距离内射合集

The appeal of a smashed burger is a matter of chemistry.

The Maillard reaction, to be precise.

In 1912, French chemist Louis Camille Maillard discovered that under high heat, sugars and amino acids combine to produce compounds called melanoidins that boost the aroma and taste of food. The reaction explains many things: the nut-brown crust on a falafel; the paper thin, crispy shell around a roasted marshmallow; the sear on a steak. In the case of ground beef, the Maillard reaction concentrates flavor in the crisp edges of the patty. Smashing the burger with a spatula exposes more of the beef to the heat, thus maximizing the reaction.

Recent years have seen local smashed burger places deploying the Maillard reaction to great effect. Success stories include Basit Gauba鈥檚 Stackers, now with four locations, and the hip-hop-themed Phat Stax that recently branched out from its Nob Hill home to the Northeast Heights.

Two more recent arrivals suggest the city鈥檚 appetite for smashed burgers remains high.

First off is the food truck No Mames Chicken & Smash. Chef/owner Abel Casta帽eda launched the truck last year, and it quickly became a breakout star at the Albuquerque Food Park on Louisiana Boulevard and San Antonio Drive. Its name 鈥� a play on an expression of amazement, as in 鈥渘o way鈥� or 鈥渟hut up鈥� 鈥� summed up the reactions it drew on social media for its multipattied smashed burgers oozing sauce and melted cheese.

And then, in May, just as it was reaching its peak in sales, No Mames had the rug pulled out from under it. The property that hosted the food park was sold to a developer and the truck was cast adrift.

But not for long.

Just a month later, it landed in a new spot at the back of a parking lot behind Ana鈥檚 Kitchen on Edith Boulevard between Monta帽o and Osuna Roads.

Adjacent to the truck is a spacious dining area with picnic benches under a shade structure. After ordering, customers get a beeper that chirps when the food is ready. The place was doing a steady business when I visited during a weekday lunch hour. I was third in line, and my food took 20 minutes to come out.

No Mames鈥� menu kicks off with three smashed burgers: the Classic Smash ($11.95) with two patties, the Hat Trick ($13.95) with three, and the NM Fire Smash ($12.95) spiced up with Hatch green chile and cherry pepper spicy aioli.

The Classic Smash Burger was served tucked in red-checked paper on an aluminum tray. Melted cheese and a tangy house sauce spilled over two thin, jagged-edged patties. Each bite was memorable, the cheese and sauce merging into a kind of queso dip for the juicy burger and its crisp, beef-flavored flecks. A brioche bun finished on the grill held together without breaking. As much as I enjoy In-N-Out Burger, No Mames鈥� well-balanced smashed burger is better.

Spicy heat distinguishes the three chicken sandwiches on the menu. There鈥檚 a Hot Honey Bird with chipotle glaze and a Nashville Knockout with spicy fried chicken over coleslaw, Nashville hot sauce and lemon aioli.

The third option, the Korean Chicken Boss ($12.95), consisted of a chicken breast pounded thin, breaded and fried, and then slathered in thick, rusty-red gochujang glaze. The glaze, made from fermented red chili paste, had hits of sweet, sour and spicy. Sriracha aioli and a fairly wet bed of slaw rounded it out. Each bite set off fireworks on the tongue, although I thought that the chicken got a little lost in all the accompaniments.

No Mames鈥� standard-cut French Fries ($3.45) are cooked in beef tallow rather than seed oil. This gave them a crispy shell, a light, fluffy core and a touch of umami. They鈥檙e also available Loaded ($5) with crispy chorizo, fried onions, avocado sauce and cotija cheese.

Tucked away at the bottom of the menu were a couple of desserts: Churros, ($4.95) with Mexican chocolate ganache and a slice of Olive Oil Cake ($3.95). The latter, a yellow cake with a golden-brown top, was served in an open box. The cake was moist, sweet and slightly fruity, and brightened with lemon zest. The topping of flaky sea salt promised on the menu seemed to be absent.

As a parting gift, I received a complimentary bag of freeze-dried Skittles. Its lip-puckering sourness made it a terrific palate cleanser.

No Mames offers gluten-free buns and vegan options. It was well staffed. Four people were working there during the lunch rush, and one man even came out to check on the diners eating at the picnic benches 鈥� the first time I鈥檝e seen this at a food truck. While predicting a food truck鈥檚 success is a fool鈥檚 errand, the quality of the food and the level of care and attention displayed toward the customers at No Mames suggests a bright future for the place.

While No Mames arrived with little fanfare, the same can鈥檛 be said for another smashed burger newbie, Patty Man. Much of the attention around Patty Man鈥檚 launch centered on owner Sean Sinclair, an esteemed local chef who earned a James Beard nomination while serving as executive chef at Level 5, the rooftop restaurant across from the Sawmill Market.

Sinclair launched the first Patty Man at Sawmill in February. A month later, he opened a second location at the Park Square Market in Uptown.

I visited the latter outlet recently for lunch. Park Square Market is a food court spread across the lobby of an office tower and a couple of neighboring low rises. Patty Man sits in a forlorn corner of the complex, with only Tulipani Pasta to accompany it. The lobby offers plenty of seating, with even more available in the shaded plaza out front.

The Patty Man鈥檚 menu is refreshingly simple: just six burgers, fries and malted shakes. Prices range from $12 for a Kid鈥檚 Burger burger to $21 for the Veggie Burger.

The star of the show is the namesake Patty Man ($19) with Tucumcari cheddar, Hatch green chile and special sauce. I suspect that the hefty price tag has less to do with inflation than the costs of doing business in a food court.

The burger arrived wrapped in blue-checked paper. The patty was smashed thin and wide so that it extended well beyond the margins of the bun. It was stretched so thin it broke apart while I was eating it. No matter. As with the burger at No Mames, there was a good balance of sauce and cheese and beef. The sweet, soft Shokupan milk bun topped with sesame seeds was grilled so that it didn鈥檛 break apart. The roasted green chile gave an opening hit of heat before fading into the background. Sorry, In-N-Out Burger, but this too was a better example of the form.

The crinkle-cut Fries ($4) tossed in a spice blend were decent, with a crisp armor and a soft middle. I wouldn鈥檛 have known that they were made from frozen if I hadn鈥檛 asked.

Malted Milkshakes ($7) are available in vanilla, chocolate and strawberry flavors. The chocolate version was served in a clear plastic cup, topped with whipped cream and a maraschino cherry. With its smooth texture and toasted-nut flavor, it admirably served the dual role of beverage and dessert.

The lone server working the counter was friendly, efficient and informative. A text is sent when your order is ready. Mine came out in about 18 minutes. Gluten-free buns cost $2 extra. The fries are gluten-free.

No Mames and Patty Man are worthy additions to Albuquerque鈥檚 already impressive smashed burger scene. Louis Camille Maillard would be pleased.