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BOOK OF THE WEEK

New book celebrates ‘A Century of Route 66 in New Mexico’

‘Road to Enchantment’ explores the Mother Road’s history through essays, profiles, and photographs

Published

New Mexico is one of the eight states that Historic Route 66 — the so-called Mother Road — cuts through.

So it may seem that a book that only shines a light on that state is showing favoritism.

Maybe so.

But the book, “Road to Enchantment: A Century of Route 66 in New Mexico,” argues convincingly for its single-state focus.

Lynn Cline

It contains stimulating essays, appealing short profiles and plenty of photographs.

The book opens with an informative introductory essay by the book’s co-editor Lynn Cline.

Her east-to-west journey started in Tucumcari with dinner of New Mexican chile rellenos at Del’s Restaurant.

She spent the night at Tucumcari’s Blue Swallow Motel. Built in 1939, the motel sports a neon sign of a bluebird in flight.

The motel’s bird at sundown is on the front cover of the book.

Cline says the bluebird is one of the most famous neon signs on all 2,448 miles of the route, when it stretched from Chicago and Santa Monica, California.

The road was commissioned as a federal highway in 1926. Its heyday, she states, was from the 1930s to about the early 1960s. It was decommissioned in 1985.

The interstate highway system bypassed many New Mexico towns, though Tucumcari is among the few that has survived the decline in Route 66 traffic.

Steve Gleydura

Cline credits preservationists and Route 66 enthusiasts worldwide for the road’s endurance.

The book’s first chapter is “Rust and Relics,” authored by Alicia Romero, head curator at the Albuquerque Museum.

Romero writes that Whiting Bros. signs promoting its chain motels and gas stations were familiar to motorists traveling 66 in New Mexico.

“These stations and their bright red-and-yellow signs offered not only fuel but also a comforting reliability for motorists crossing long, isolated stretches of desert,” she writes.

Romero mentions a 1951 photograph (not shown in the book) of a Whiting Bros. station at what was then the east end of Central Avenue in Albuquerque.

That station’s six pumps and its sign advertising gas at 25.5 cents per gallon are long gone.

The book quotes profiled historic preservationist Johnnie Meier of Embudo as observing, “the gigantic (Whiting Bros.) shield-shaped sign at McCartys was the mother of all Whiting Bros. signs.”

Meier doesn’t explain why. McCartys was a village 14 miles east of Grants.

Look closely and you’ll see a fresh-looking Whiting Bros. sign in the mid-background of a photo of Mike Pogue, co-owner of the Sunset Motel in Moriarty. (Pogue is profiled in Chapter 4.)

The book spills over with retro images — cars, interior designs, jukeboxes and this wording on a sign on a wall of Tucumcari’s Motel Safari: “More doctors smoke Camels than any other cigarette.”

“We are fortunate,” Romero writes, “to have architecture, objects, ephemera and oral histories documenting the history of Route 66 so that future generations can continue to learn about and love this road.”

The essay in the second chapter, titled “Light and Color,” is written by Albuquerque documentary photographer Nathaniel Tetsuro Paolinelli.

Along Route 66 “neon does more than advertise. It punctuates darkness and asserts presence in wide-open spaces,” Paolinelli writes.

A photo of the restored neon sign of the KiMo Theatre in Downtown Albuquerque makes his point.

Paolinelli also references other visual offerings on the route — a series of large-scale murals in Grants, Art City’s immersive sculpture park in Tucumcari, and the classic cars and lowriders humming along Albuquerque’s Central Avenue (aka Route 66) that he calls “rolling expressions of light and color.”

Much of Chapter 3 (“Comfort and Joy”), written by Gwyneth Doland, promotes restaurants in Tucumcari, Santa Rosa, Albuquerque, Gallup and Santa Fe — and their fare.

Santa Fe qualifies because Route 66’s original alignment passed through the state capital until 1937.

An insightful essay in Chapter 5, “Land and Legacy,” takes a long historical view.

The essay, by Ungelbah Dávila, who is Diné, states, “Long before the Mother Road learned our names, Indigenous people had mapped the land through use and memory. Spanish, Mexican and U.S. travelers followed those same veins, repurposing Native pathways into royal roads, trade routes and finally highways. When Route 66 followed those corridors through Laguna Pueblo, Acoma Pueblo and parts of the Navajo Nation, it layered 20th century ambition onto land already thick with its own mythology,” Dávila writes.

Indigenous families benefited from Route 66. Pueblo and Navajo families earned much-needed income by selling pottery, jewelry and textiles to travelers. Commerce brought their art into the nation’s consciousness, Dávila writes.

Another benefit has been that Indigenous art brought attention to the public performances at the annual Gallup Inter-Tribal Indian Ceremonial.

Teri Frazier (Laguna-Hopi/Chippewa), director of the Gallup Cultural Center, is profiled in Chapter 3.

Cline and Steve Gleydura, editor-in-chief of New Mexico Magazine, co-edited “Road to Enchantment.” Jen Judge is listed as the photographer, with photo contributions from others.

Gleydura said the book, produced by the magazine, is a result of the state Tourism Department wanting to celebrate Route 66 in a different way.