FOOD
Serving up victory: Diné chef hopes ‘Chopped’ win will expand spotlight on Indigenous foods, culture
Fruitland native says ‘preserving our Navajo culture and food and history is really important to us’
FRUITLAND — Justin Pioche’s love of food originated in his grandmother’s kitchen.
The most memorable meal she made for him was also a humble one — pea soup and traditional Navajo fry bread — prepared from simple ingredients grown in the soil of the Navajo Reservation along the San Juan River, west of Farmington.
“There was something about the savoriness from the peas — the sweetness, the umami flavor — all coming together with the hot, crispy, salty, fry bread,” Pioche said. “Everything just came in full circle and basically blew my mind.”
Pioche carried the beacon of his grandmother’s cooking into his parents’ kitchen, where he helped feed his siblings from the time he was 7, all the way to New York City a year and a half ago, when he won the Food Network’s first Native American-forward episode of the hit reality-TV series “Chopped.”
Pioche, who hails from the Diné Salt Clan, flew to New York in October 2024 to film the show’s “Indigenous Inspiration” episode, which didn’t air until April 21 of this year.
Keeping the lid on the news of his victory for that long was a challenge, he said. Only his closest family members knew the outcome, and Food Network showrunners bound them to secrecy before the episode finally reached public eyes last month.
The Pioche family and their friends gathered inside Buffalo Wild Wings in Farmington the day of the premiere, watching their hometown chef emerge victorious against three other Native American culinary experts: Mariah Gladstone of the Blackfeet and Cherokee tribes, Jessica Walks First Pamonicutt of the Menominee tribe, and fellow New Mexico chef Ray Naranjo, who runs a food cart on Santa Clara Pueblo.
In keeping with the show’s mystery-box format, all four chefs were provided with an assortment of impromptu ingredients from which to craft an appetizer, entree and dessert fit for a Michelin Star restaurant. Staghorn sumac, pawpaw pulp, whitefish and kahsherhon:ni, otherwise known as an “Indian donut,” were all on the menu.
When Pioche’s final opponent, food and environmental advocate Gladstone, was “chopped” by the judges, the Fruitland chef’s hometown restaurant erupted in cheers, a celebration that may have been a long time coming.
“Food Network was actually knocking on my door for quite some time, and I kept saying no over and over,” Pioche said. “I never felt like it was the right time or that I had an interesting story to tell.
“The concept they were pitching never seemed right,” he added, “but when they said it was going to be an Indigenous-forward challenge, I said yes because preserving our Navajo culture and food and history is really important to us.”
While the show is formatted for TV audiences, Pioche said the core concept — challenging chefs to adapt to unpredictable scenarios — is an experience that should resonate with chefs the world over.
“Almost every job I’ve ever worked at, something happens — whether it’s someone who has allergies or something that you don’t expect — you got to be quick to think on your toes,” he said.
Pioche runs Pioche Food Group with his mother, Janice, and sister, Tia. Together, they share Indigenous-inspired foods through multicourse catering events meant to bring the culture of the Navajo Nation into homes and businesses across the region.
“We try to tell a more modern story about Navajo foods and culture,” Pioche said. “So we like to say that we’re not changing the recipes so much as we’re just changing the outlook and updating it.”
The Pioches also run a food cart and contribute at Navajo Ethno-Agriculture, a Native-owned and operated nonprofit that works to preserve traditional Navajo heritage crops and farming techniques by teaching students how to connect with the land.
During a family vacation to Orlando, Florida, Pioche gained an early foothold on his path to the culinary world during a chance encounter with Robert Irvine, an English American celebrity chef who’s hosted multiple shows on the Food Network.
“He told me that I needed to stop, for a lack of better words, ‘bullshitting around’ and get to some real cooking,” Pioche recalled. “So he called his buddy, Beau MacMillan, who had recently won Iron Chef, where he beat Bobby Flay.”
After an interview, MacMillan took Pioche on at his kitchen in Phoenix. The young chef refined his skills over the course of 10 years in the city before returning home to start his own business where he grew up outside Farmington.
Here, his culinary education has continued with brushes with other well-known New Mexican chefs, from whom he draws his own inspiration and shares his own creativity. In 2023, Pioche was a finalist for the James Beard Foundation’s “Best Chef – Southwest.”
“He was a guest chef here,” Chris Bethany, a fellow James Beard nominee who runs Campo at Los Poblanos in Albuquerque, said. “Instead of doing our regular menu, we did a complete takeover with a certain ingredient or a certain theme. In his case, he focused on corn for that dinner.”
Bethany described Pioche’s food as “refined, super built on his heritage, his culture, his family.”
Heritage is a well Pioche continues to draw from — and replenish — here in the northwestern corner of the state.
When he’s cooking or walking the fields near his ancestral home, he says he still thinks of his grandmother and her ability to take the simplest ingredients from the ground and make them unforgettable in her kitchen.
“Especially when it comes to gardening and stuff like that, I’m like, ‘Grandma, help me,’” he said, laughing. “I like to make the joke that she had the green thumb and gave me a black one.”
John Miller is the ϼ’s northern New Mexico correspondent. He can be reached at jmiller@abqjournal.com.