DINING REVIEW
The place to be: Santa Ana鈥檚 flagship restaurant Corn Maiden celebrates 25 years
In 2001, the people of Santa Ana, the pueblo that straddles the Rio Grande north of Bernalillo, opened the 350-room Hyatt Regency Tamaya Resort and Spa. At the time, the resort spread across 200 acres was the largest ever constructed on Native American land.
Though others have followed, Tamaya 鈥 the name means 鈥渢he place鈥 in the native Keres language 鈥 remains the standard bearer for Native-owned resorts in New Mexico. From its matchless setting on a bluff overlooking the bosque and the Sandia Mountains, Tamaya maintains the difficult balancing act of introducing visitors to the culture and history of the 800-year-old community while maintaining the privacy of its residents. As it celebrates its 25th anniversary, its founders and staff can look back on numerous accolades and achievements, including a role as the backdrop for season 17 of the hit TV show 鈥淭he Bachelorette鈥 in 2021.
Also celebrating its 25th anniversary is Corn Maiden, the resort鈥檚 flagship restaurant. The restaurant began as a Brazilian-style steakhouse where servers roamed the dining room with meat speared on skewers. After the pandemic, it shifted to a farm-to-table concept under the direction of chef George Silva. The chef helped revive a garden on the property that now provides the veggies and herbs that turn up in several of the dishes.
近距离内射合集 of its reopening after a seasonal closure prompted me to make reservations online. I booked on a Friday and had no problem getting a dinner slot for two for the following night.
The approach to Tamaya by car is memorable. Signs of civilization vanish as you drive north past Prairie Star Restaurant and a few nine-hole golf courses and enter a narrow road that winds downhill through the sage. And then, just when you think you might be lost, the resort opens up in front of you.
Ample parking is available in front. From there, you enter the lobby, go past the check-in counter, and then follow the signs down a flight of stairs and out a door to the restaurant鈥檚 charming entryway flanked by ladders and a chimney oven.
Entering the dining room, we were greeted by the powerful scent of bundled sage burning in a bowl. The host guided us past the small bar and open kitchen, where Silva and his staff prepared for the night鈥檚 service. Jacqueline, the resort鈥檚 longtime VIP manager, puttered around the room, adjusting tables and chairs and placing knickknacks on the mantel above the large fireplace.
The dining room is decorated in earth tones. Two-top tables line the windows, banquettes the opposite wall, and larger tables fill the middle space. Our table at the window looked east toward the bosque and the Sandia Mountains.
After we were seated, the host set down two menus in front of us: one for food, the other for drinks.
The handful of wines on the Drinks Menu run from $12-$18 a glass and $48-$72 a bottle, while the five cocktails go for $18-$20. The Corn Maiden Margarita ($18) is made with La Gritona Tequila and a Mexican orange liqueur called Alma Finca, along with lime and lemon juice and agave syrup. Served in a rocks glass rimmed with pink salt, the drink was well-balanced with sour, sweet and smoky notes. Like most things here, it was priced at the high end of the local dining spectrum.
The food menu is divided into Pueblo Inspired Starters, Salads, Entrees and Sides.
The meal started with a couple of complimentary blue corn muffins. I try not to fill up on bread before a meal, but I found these warm, soft confections aromatic with sage to be irresistible.
Five items priced from $12 to $22 make up the Starters Menu. Summer Squash Bisque ($12), the only soup on offer, arrived as two components. First was a wide, shallow black bowl holding coconut milk and pepitas with a mound of pesto in the middle like a verdant island in a white lagoon. The squash bisque came in a small pitcher that the server upended into the bowl. Though the coconut milk muted the heat of the bisque, the flavors were terrific, the pesto providing a savory counterpoint to the creamy, sweet soup.
A more filling starter of White Bean Cassoulet ($15) was an arresting sight, with dollops of pesto, sliced cherry tomatoes and orange-tinted pine nuts adding pops of color to the light brown broth and white beans. This version was a little soupier than the classic stew version and had no sausage or pork or chicken in it. Think of it as a subtly salted, hearty bean soup. The accompanying plate of housemade flour tortillas, their crisp edges and bubbly surface marked from the grill, held up well when dipped into the soup.
After a couple of salads that cost $14 and $16 come seven entrees starting at $32 for a vegan dish of Braised Cabbage with wild rice and mushrooms and climbing to $90 for a 24-ounce Charcoal Ribeye for Two with baked mac and cheese and house vegetables. A small selection, but with good variety.
Silva鈥檚 Rotisserie Game Hen ($37) is brined in whey, a liquid byproduct of cheesemaking that tenderizes the meat while adding a tangy flavor. The hen, basically a smaller version of a chicken, was served cut into pieces and piled in a pyramid with broccolini over a bed of parsnip puree. Ribbons of parsnip chips topped it off. The bird had lots of tender, juicy meat, and the caramelized leek sauce was like a rich, sweet gravy that tied everything together. Special mention to the silky parsnip puree that was like a lighter, sweeter version of whipped potatoes. A terrific dish, warming and hearty, though maybe a tad heavy for the warmer months ahead.
Pan Roasted Halibut ($48), the only fish dish on the menu, was served on a rimmed plate over warm potato salad, with a few cherry tomatoes scattered about. Under a golden-brown crust, the meaty, hefty fillet was fresh and moist, the purple potatoes al dente. The light dressing of shallot chile crisp did not make much of an impression.
On this night, the Dessert Menu had three options: Chocolate Pinon Torte with blueberry compote, Prickly Pear Lime Cake with mint soup, and the lone gluten-free option, Caramelized Honey Panna Cotta with blue corn streusel. The latter ($12) was served in a handled ramekin, the sandy streusel spread across one side, the blackberries set in the middle. Caramelization of the honey added a nutty, toffee-like flavor to the gelatinous pudding.
Vegan and gluten-free options are marked on the menu, a rarity in local restaurants.
Service was attentive, and the food came out in a timely fashion. Several staffers dropped by to chat with us over the course of the meal. They seemed excited to be back in action after a monthslong layoff.
Corn Maiden is a fitting flagship restaurant for Tamaya. Locally, only Campo at Los Poblanos can match its setting. The cooking of chef Silva is an added bonus.