ONE-ON-ONE
Dimitri Eleftheriou makes ice cream you can’t get twice
Brown butter piñon. Adobe Road, with red chile marshmallows and candied pecans. A soy sauce special?
These are all ice cream flavors that have been featured at Heidi’s Ice Cream Shop, where the unusual is part of a constantly changing menu.
OK, soy sauce wasn’t the most popular scoop — and it’s no longer an option — but people did like it, says Dimitri Eleftheriou, Heidi’s owner.
Several years ago, Eleftheriou took over his mother’s business, Heidi’s Raspberry Farm, and expanded raspberry jams into ice cream production and a cannabis product line.
The cannabis items and five kinds of raspberry jam are sold wholesale — but ice cream is scooped directly into Heidi’s homemade waffle cones five days a week at the shop near Interstate 25 and Candelaria NE.
“Ice cream speaks to everybody because everyone has this nostalgic relationship to it,” Eleftheriou says. “And, you know, ice cream has a place everywhere — winter, summer, rain or shine, (customers) show up.”
Eleftheriou also just opened an ice cream food truck that is stationed at The Farm Stand in Corrales. The village is where he got his retail start as a kid helping his mother, Heidi Eleftheriou, sell flowers and later raspberry products from a five-acre farm.
Heidi’s Edibles are sold at various cannabis outlets and include ice cream and gummies.
Eleftheriou’s formal introduction to the food world was a high-end one: He was educated at Le Cordon Bleu in San Francisco, had an internship at the world-renowned Chez Panisse and worked at several other upscale San Francisco restaurants.
His craving for creativity shows up in his ice cream business. The shop features a “Scoop Lab” the first week of the month during which a limited flavor “goes into the case for five days” and then never comes back.
It’s “hyper-seasonal … and gives us a chance to make really unique flavors that we don't have to make a ton of,” he says.
“I would say the wildest one was … a wasabi ice cream base with strawberry jam swirled into it. It was a little spicy. We sold out after three days.”
How do you get ideas for new ice cream flavors?
My wife, Celestina, and I create all the flavors together… but she’s the one who’s actually going downstairs in the kitchen and creating it. How we get ideas is just inspiration — what hits our creative notes. Maybe it’s going on a vacation, and we have a meal that blew us away, and there were parts of the meal that stuck with us and we kind of made it our own. Maybe it’s watching a show and seeing something that we never knew was possible and then doing research and diving into that thing. Maybe it’s a conversation with somebody about an experience they had, and we saw how it was profound for them. So that’s a note we want to hit and try to get back to.
How did you get your start in the food business?
My father’s Greek. My mother’s American, but the Greek food and the Greek philosophy really sticks with our family, so food has always been the center of gatherings. I had a calling for food. When I was 19, I wasn’t going to go to college. School was not my thing. Culinary school just seemed like the best thing to do. So I went to San Francisco and attended Le Cordon Bleu for a few years. Got to see the workings of restaurants and that world, which was awesome. That’s where I got a lot of discipline in my life, from working in kitchens.
Why did you decide to expand Heidi’s jams into ice cream?
I love ice cream. I love sweets. I went to Williams Sonoma and bought a little Cuisinart ice cream machine, 200 bucks. I just started making bases and learning more about ice cream and gelato, and I decided to go more with ice cream and a classic custard. For two years, I really experimented and ran the raspberry business. The first place I ever sold ice cream was at our you-pick (raspberry farm). I just brought a freezer, filled up three or four pints, and I would do some scoops on waffle cones I bought at the store. People loved it.
Why did you leave the San Francisco restaurant world?
What brought me back to New Mexico was after many years of working in kitchens and loving it and hating it, I decided that I didn’t want to work in restaurants in that capacity anymore. I didn’t want to work for others. I wanted to create my own identity and my own thing with food, but not in a restaurant exactly because that just takes so much away. It’s a beautiful thing, but it’s a difficult thing.
What’s been your most popular Scoop Lab flavor?
On our front patio here, we have all these honeysuckle bushes. So when all the honeysuckles popped out, we picked the flowers, which was two giant buckets, and we made honeysuckle ice cream. It’s a cold steep, so it’s like a three-day process. It was a huge hit. We sold out very quickly. We had people coming in very sad that it was gone, but it was Scoop Lab and hyper-seasonal. There were no more flowers to be picked.
What’s the best part of your job?
It’s when I hear customers and people say, “Oh my God, that was the best scoop of ice cream I’ve ever had in my life.” Or, “I grew up eating my grandma’s jam, and I have to say, your jam stands with it.” Those remarks kind of push me, and I see the light, and it keeps me moving. And then seeing our staff be happy to be here. That gives me so much hope, because running businesses is difficult and there are times that you want to give up, and it could be easy to do that. But those moments where we have that recognition from people, then I’m like, all right, we are doing the right thing. We’re on the right track. We just have to keep moving.
Ellen Marks, a former Journal editor, writes One-on-One profiles and Scam Watch. You can reach her at emarks@abqjournal.com.