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At first glance, Pazzi, the Italian word for 鈥渃razy,鈥� seems an inapt name for a restaurant.

But at Pazzi Ristorante Italiano in the Northeast Heights, the name is not a comment on the cuisine or the staff. Rather, it鈥檚 a tongue-in-cheek reference to the mindset required to launch a restaurant amid inflation, worker shortages and all the other challenges.

Pazzi owners Lee and Kelly Caperton know whereof they speak. Through their Cantina Hospitality Group, they run local stalwarts Poki Poki, Tamashi Sushi & Sake and Brekki Brekki.

Pazzi, perhaps their most ambitious project to date, opened in January in a space occupied for 12 years by another Italian restaurant, Farina Alto. An overhaul of the menu followed, along with a modest makeover of the space.

Pazzi shares a stretch of road on the north side of Montgomery Boulevard with two well-established spots, Savoy and El Patron. A good-sized parking lot surrounds the freestanding building.

On a hot Saturday night, the dining room buzzed. A diverse range of ages dined to the sounds of Motown playing from the speakers above. The basic dimensions of the dining room, with booths lining the perimeter and tables filling the middle, echoed Farina Alto. A few nips and tucks have brightened up the space. For instance, Farina鈥檚 black bar surface has been swapped out for a gleaming white top, and a striking glass decoration behind the bar glows like a sunset in shades of orange.

The ambitious menu is centered around homemade pasta and pizzas.

Our meal began with complimentary bread baskets: four blocks of focaccia for me, gluten-free bread for my two dining companions. Served warm, the focaccia was aromatic with garlic and rosemary, and the pockets on its surface were ideal for trapping melted butter. The thick, grilled slices of the gluten-free bread provided the first indication that this place takes 鈥渟enza glutine鈥� dining seriously.

The dinner menu starts off with a selection of antipasti and salads that run from an $8 cup of seasonal soup to $22 for the fried Italian seafood sampler Fritto Misto.

A starter of Fried Polenta ($14) consisted of five pieces, each about the size and shape of a small stack of poker chips, lined up across the middle of the plate. The pieces were topped with a dollop of pesto and a black truffle chive frico, similar to a Parmesan chip, sticking up like a rooster鈥檚 comb. The polenta, a coarsely ground cornmeal mix, was well-prepared, with a crisp shell over a creamy interior, and the herbaceous pesto and intensely tart and sweet balsamic red wine reduction complemented its corny sweetness. A good, shareable dish.

Also shareable was the Chopped Salad ($13/$20), one of several salads on the menu. It arrived with the myriad veggies sectioned off like paint on an artist鈥檚 palette. Broccolini, chopped olives, blazing hot pepperoncini and halved cherry tomatoes dominated the plate, with garbanzo beans on board for some backbone. A red wine vinaigrette dressing tied the disparate flavors together. The serving was ample enough for three of us to share.

The nine pizzas on the menu are available in two sizes, with the small versions costing $11 to $14, the large, $20 to $26. I chose a small La Classica ($12), Pazzi鈥檚 version of a Margherita pizza, to go. The pie was cut into six slices and topped with basil leaves. Instead of the lily pads of mozzarella in a standard Margherita pie, the cheese here was evenly distributed over a mellow, sweet San Marzano tomato sauce. The firm crust held up well to the toppings, though it was undersalted.

Pazzi is one of the rare places that makes its own gluten-free pizza dough, available in the large sizes only. We sampled it in a to-go order of the Diavoletta ($24) with Hatch green chile and pepperoni. The pie had an almost rimless crust under a thick layer of cheese topped with plenty of pepperoni and a smattering of green chile. The crust was a true rarity: a gluten-free version that replicates the doughiness of regular crust. The most experienced gluten-free diner in our group declared it the best in town.

Pazzi鈥檚 pasta-making machine, imported from Italy, worked overtime on this night, cranking out some of the nine pasta dishes on the menu. The heartiest of the options, Pappardelle and Berkshire Pork Belly Ragu ($27), was served on a black, rimmed plate. A sauce of red wine pomodoro, bright and tangy, clung to the wide, soft-textured noodles and the well-cooked broccolini, and a snowfall of Grana Padano, a cheese similar to Parmesan, delivered a sharp kick. The small squares of pork belly presented appetizing layers of tender meat sandwiched around strips of fat. A satisfying dish, if best suited for the cooler months ahead.

Proteins like poultry, beef, fish and lamb are well represented on the rest of the menu. An entr茅e of Red Bird Chicken Breast ($25) with spaghetti was available in Parmesan, Marsala and Piccata versions. For the marsala version, the chicken breast was served in a shallow bowl over a snarl of spaghetti and a rich brown sauce of wine, butter, olive oil and cremini mushrooms. A topping of microgreens relieved the brownness of it all. The chicken was juicy, the sauce at once earthy, nutty and sweet.

In contrast to the chicken, a dish of Pan-roasted Quail ($26) was minimalist: just a small whole bird perched on slices of grilled squash and roasted mushroom risotto and dressed in a port wine reduction. The simple presentation let the quail, more robust in flavor and silkier in texture than its chicken cousin, stand out.

Pazzi鈥檚 wine list includes lots of bottles in the $30 to $40 range and a couple of flights featuring three 3-ounce glasses for $22 or $30. The beer on tap ($6 to $6.50) comes from Albuquerque鈥檚 own Cantina Craftworks. There are four nonalcoholic refreshers for $8 each and a dozen signature cocktails for $10 to $15. I recommend the tart and sweet White Peach Sangria ($11) with pinot grigio served in a stemmed goblet as a refreshing choice for these hot days. The wine鈥檚 acidity balanced the intense sweetness of the white peach.

The 10 desserts offer a good selection with prices starting at $5.50 for sorbet, gelato and affogato. On the recommendation of the server, we chose the Pavlova Flamb茅 ($13), one of several gluten-free options. Despite the name, it is not flamed at the table. Instead, it鈥檚 presented as a browned meringue bowl filled with pastry cream, sliced berries and kiwi on a black-rimmed plate strewn with almond crumble. Between the airy cream and the melt-in-your-mouth meringue, it鈥檚 a light dessert that picks up sweet and sour notes from orange curd and passionfruit puree. A good choice for summer that pairs particularly well with coffee.

Our server, a holdover from Farina Alto, was very knowledgeable about the menu and the history of the place. Pazzi deserves special mention for having a menu that is very accommodating to gluten-free diners.

Note: The menu is undergoing some changes in anticipation of fall. The crepes are gone, and the Roasted Artichoke & Asparagus Stuffed Ravioli has been replaced with a Mushroom version ($28). I tried this during a recent weekday lunch. The dish was comprised of eight puffy ravioli arranged in a circle around a pile of sliced, saut茅ed mushrooms and topped with Parmigiano Reggiano. A blend of finely minced mushrooms and ricotta filled each ravioli. A meaty, savory marvel. I highly recommend it.

As diverse as the Saturday night dinner crowd was, the lunch crowd skewed noticeably older. My server did double duty as bartender, which slowed service a bit.

By expanding on the menu of its predecessor, Farina Alto, Pazzi works for both a casual lunch and a special night out. Perhaps it is crazy to offer all these dishes at decent prices. Time will tell. For now, take advantage.