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Majestic Rio Arriba County: O'Keeffe's magic light & outdoor thrills

From iconic red rock formations to serene lakes, area promises outdoor adventures for hikers, rafters, scenery lovers

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Rio Arriba guide: The Santa Fe VIP

Victor Romero, known as 鈥淭he Santa Fe VIP鈥 is not just a tour guide but a concierge, touring informant, and northern New Mexico expert due to his 30+ career in hospitality, according to his

He shared some of his Rio Arriba favorites in an email to GO! New Mexico:

鈥淩io Arriba County is a huge county....sooo I love to hang by the river up in Chama and walk the little town area, explore the train and walk down to the river.

I love El Vado Lake because I'm surrounded by trees and hills and the mountains, the water was the coolest nestled in the hills makes anyone want to stay a couple of nights because the sky and stars are incredible from this area.

Abiquiu Lake is fun when I don't have time or want a quick getaway and need water but not a lot of trees to hide from the shade so bring an umbrella but the drive around Abiquiu is still as breathtaking as the first time going up and down the windy road and the Chama River takes ones breath away.

鈥淣ow going toward Taos: I love to drive, through Ohkay Owingeh and see all the cool stuff by the River. From the Pueblo, going north of the river, just after the Rio Grande I like to drive on the north side of the River and take in all the amazing petroglyphs of Mesa Prieta.

Nothing beats a soak at Ojo Caliente!

鈥淲hat can I say that hasn't already been said, " Do It, You'll Thank Me Later:"

I love to buy fresh fruit in Velarde at the many family stands.

I love to stop just after the main "blue bridge" to Embudo pull off and walk down to the river. I've seen the cranes cruising and seven of them sound like a plane. The area is nice to just dip your toes in our beautiful Rio Grande.鈥

And that鈥檚 just the outdoor recreation, he says, don鈥檛 miss the history throughout the area.

Victor  roots start in northern New Mexico, he says and he is available for hire for tours including Los Alamos, Espanola Valley, Santa Fe and sites in Rio Arriba County including the Ghost Ranch. Get his app on the Apple app store  at 

The looming Brazos Cliffs. The roaring, wild and scenic Rio Chama. Real-life high-desert red rock glowing in a way you thought only Georgia O鈥橩eeffe imagined and painted.

Rio Arriba County, a bit more than two hours north and west of Albuquerque, is a paradise that is split by U.S. 84. The vibrant green meadows and forests of the land grants remain worth fighting over and certainly require a visit.

Public lands allow non-land-grant New Mexicans to sightsee in much of the county, but you must be sure to understand and respect the private land boundaries of the families that arrived more than 500 years ago. Carson National Forest fills the center of the county and Rio Arriba also includes bits of San Pedro Parks Wilderness and the Santa Fe National Forest on its southern border. If you see a 鈥淭ierra o muerte鈥 sign, out of respect, be sure to check your location before proceeding.

Here are a few of the highlights that include New Mexico state parks, national forests and federal dams:

  • The Echo Amphitheater area in the Carson National Forest includes a campground with electricity and a canyon where you can amuse the children with echo magic.

  • South of the wild-and-scenic portion of Rio Chama are three lakes, two with state parks: Heron Lake State Park, El Vado Lake State Park and Abiqui煤 Lake. El Vado has been experiencing issues with its dam, and as of June 2026, New Mexico 112 over the dam and south through the Jicarilla Apache Nation was closed.

  • A steep, paved road leads to a series of lakes and the Canjilon Lakes Campground (Carson National Forest), perfect for fishing and camping along the Continental Divide Trail. 

  • Trout Lakes Campground (Carson National Forest) should only be attempted with a high-clearance four-wheel vehicle along a rocky road. We have been thwarted by our lack of an adequate vehicle multiple times.

  • Take part in or watch north of El Rito, at the El Rito Sport Area Rock Climbing, along dirt Forest Road 44. It is a unique area where you push yourself through a tunnel in the rock to see a fully enclosed 鈥渟choolhouse鈥 of climbing routes. 鈥淢etamorphosed sand and mud with inclusions of smooth, rounded cobbles of all sizes,鈥 according to the Mountain Project. 鈥淭he cobbles, and the holes they leave when they fall out of the matrix, form excellent holds that allow relatively moderate climbing for such steep rock.鈥 You can disperse camp nearby

  • slices through Rio Arriba County, making its way from San Pedro Peaks through Ghost Ranch, past Hopewell Lake State Park, past the Cruces Basin Wilderness and north toward Colorado.
    Here鈥檚 what you can see from the east along scenic US 64, which is usually closed in the winter.

  • Tres Piedras has rock climbing and dispersed camping just west of the one restaurant in town. It does not have a gasoline station. You can also rent out Aldo Leopold鈥檚 cabin.

  • provides a thorough way for birds, including the pine siskin, evening grosbeak and Cassin鈥檚 finch near the remote campground,  according to .

  • Hopewell Lake Campground (Carson National Forest), along U.S. 64 at 9,500 feet between Tres Piedras and Tierra Amarilla, has a stocked trout lake.

  • Brazos Cliffs can be viewed from U.S. 64 or U.S. 84, but you can only visit up close if you book a stay at the private at the end of Forest Road 512. Dogs are not allowed near the cliffs, nor is camping.

  • For a unique experience, check out the  Areas along the river just before the El Vado Dam. It is open from Memorial Day until about Labor Day, and requires a hunting license or a GAIN (gaining access into nature) permit for nonhunters. There is dispersed camping along the banks of the Rio Chama and you can watch river rafts float past or fish in the Green Chile Trout waters. It is about 12 miles south of Chama along N.M. 112. Be sure to have a current license handy as rangers patrol the area checking for permits.

Enjoying the Rio Chama from in the river is a bit more difficult. You must obtain a permit from the Bureau of Land Management or book an excursion with an outfitter such as New Mexico River Adventures.

鈥淢ost outfitted trips on the Rio Chama last two days, beginning at Cooper's Ranch just below El Vado Dam and ending 31 miles downstream at Big Eddy takeout,鈥 according to the BLM website. 鈥淒ay trips on the lower section are also available, which last about 5 hours. The river passes through designated wilderness on the upper stretches; the lower section is lightly developed and very scenic.鈥

For true adventurers, river surfers can hang 10 just below the dam on the Rio Chama in an area called the Abiqui煤 Wave along Forest Road 162.

GO New Mexico will highlight outdoor recreation county-by-county in coming months. Here鈥檚 the report on Sandoval County printed in the Sunday Journal in May 2026.




Share your New Mexico adventure channel, rigs and panorama photos with us at go@abqjournal.com.  It could appear in an edition of the Sunday Journal in the GO! New Mexico weekly outdoors section.

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